Looking aft down thru where the cabin will go. Soles of evening saloon and under double bunk have first coay of floor paint and beams now have primer, undercoat and one topcoat on.Much better doing it now with the 'lid' off. Going to Auckland tomorrow for glue and 4 6v batteries. marcus will start fairing the beams and bulkheads and then T&G and later 12mm ply. Have decided NO fibreglassing to deck.
Earlier in week I had to glue packers to all the old forward deck beams, as over the 55 years they are a bit flat in camber. Will mow off and fair all the foredeck beams Momday.
Looking aft down thru where the cabin will go. Soles of evening saloon and under double bunk have first coay of floor paint and beams now have primer, undercoat and one topcoat on.Much better doing it now with the 'lid' off. Going to Auckland tomorrow for glue and 4 6v batteries. marcus will start fairing the beams and bulkheads and then T&G and later 12mm ply. Have decided NO fibreglassing to deck.
Earlier in week I had to glue packers to all the old forward deck beams, as over the 55 years they are a bit flat in camber. Will mow off and fair all the foredeck beams Momday.
Could you elaborate on your reasons for not wanting to fibreglass the deck?
ReplyDeleteIf it is a practical reason, I'd love to know it.
Much discusion on this one. I had Fiery Cross with a ply deck unglassed for 50 odd years. Yes there were some checks but none seriosly.The ply we are using is vey dense hardwood that I think will resist checking.The cost and process is unpleasant-my boatbuilder will dissappear!We are using JOTUN grey primer which I have a lot of faith in.I have seen an oregan mast rot out in a year after being glassed.Glass should be heavier tghan 6 oz or zipper cracks appear and water gets trapped. We have details that will make the deck 100% waterproof (I think!)
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